KIRSTY PAYNE - Best New Designer 2010
Daniel Clark & Charlotte Keyworth of JUNK SHOP - Best Small Independent Retailer 2010
GERARDINE HEMINGWAY of Red or Dead - Lifetime Achievement in Fashion 2010
We’re back from the Best of Manchester Fashion Awards 2010, full of champagne and canapés (thank you for those, Mr Thomas’ Chop House!), and of course… very excited to announce the winners for all three categories!
Best New Designer: KIRSTY PAYNE
Best Small Independent Retailer/Designer: JUNK SHOP
Lifetime Achievement in Fashion: GERARDINE HEMINGWAY of Red or Dead
We’ll be posting photos of the winning designers and their collections, and images from the awards ceremony – hosted in the beautiful settings of St. Ann’s Church – soon! Keep your eyes on the blog for the latest updates, and a huge congratulations to the winners! Well done all and we hope you enjoy your £2,000 prize money – you’re the reason Manchester is such a stylish city.
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After much deliberating and many cups of coffee, the judges have finally come to a decision on the SHORT-LIST for this year’s Best of Manchester Fashion Awards! Congratulations and good luck to…
NEW DESIGNER AWARD short-listed nominees:
CHARLOTTE LEE TAYLOR
For University of Salford Fashion graduate Charlotte Lee Taylor, fashion has always been a way of life, a first love, a living, and a dream. She started young by hacking perfectly good clothes up, customising them to her own taste – much to the dismay of her parents!
Charlotte designs with her heart on paper, with just a simple pencil in hand and a vision of claiming a small part of the presence in mind. It is the possibility and excitement of designing what may shape future fashion that most inspires her style – featuring brash, femininely structured, close fitting tailoring.
Her concept style has many sides to it. She loves the idea of creating more than a collection, putting on more than the average catwalk show. As a designer, Charlotte wants to entice people with her work. She dares to be different by mixing different medias to create a whole new look, a key factor to create the next phenomenon.
For her final collection, Charlotte researched ‘The Abyss’, and its unearthly ocean dwelling creatures. She chose to produce an all black collection to mimic the darkness of this unexplored, unknown undersea world, and was inspired by the ‘bioluminescence’ of the strange organisms found there. The garments feature a combination of textures which re-enact the hypnotic movements and dazzling, structured appearances of these alien-like life forms. A range of fabrics sourced from Paris, London and around Manchester were used, including wool, mohair, silk and jersey, and LED lights effectively simulate the ‘lure of luminescence’.
The judges have short-listed Charlotte for her Abyss-inspired collection and extraordinary innovation with meshing together LED lighting and fabric – challenging the notion of where fashion ends and technology begins.
KIRSTY PAYNE
Kirsty Payne is a University of Salford Fashion graduate. She is a skilled pattern cutter, and also integrates the use of Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator into her processes. Her graduate collection was shown at London Graduate Fashion Week, where she was one of the ten finalists put forward for the £20,000 Gold Award.
Kirsty enjoys designing in all aspects of womenwear, with a major interest in creating country and outdoor wear. Inspired by her hobby of horse-riding (Kirsty has two horses of her own), the final collection is based on equestrian wear, but with a quintessentially city feel and appearance. Naming the collection ‘Quite The Contrary’, meaning ‘quite the opposite’, Kirsty wanted to focus on the opposing looks of Country Girl and City Girl, and combine the two so neither would look out of place in either setting – utilising traditional fabrics and giving them a contemporary, urban twist.
Following the success of being selected for the Gold Award and showing her final collection in the Gala Show at London Graduate Fashion Week, Kirsty was also chosen to show two of her outfits at China’s Graduate Fashion Week. There she was one of the few designers representing England’s graduates on London’s Graduate Fashion Week stand – a fantastic achievement for a new designer to be recognised by well-respected members of the fashion industry beyond the UK.
The judges have short-listed Kirsty for her sophisticated spin on the quintessentially British equestrian theme – merging the Country Girl and City Girl silhouette and bringing a look of the countryside onto busy city streets so effortlessly.
REBECCA THOMSON
Rebecca Thomson is a recently graduated Fashion Design student from Manchester Metropolitan University.
Graduating with First Class Honours and with the prestigious London Graduate Fashion Week Gold Award already under her belt, she is now preparing to study a Masters degree at The Royal College of Art.
Rebecca believes her collection represents both herself and her passions in life and design. Her designs transcend the idea of combining comfort and construction, drawing contrasting inspiration from photographer Roman Vishniac’s 1930s book illustration. Whilst experimenting with both historic and modern techniques and textures she developed upon the idea of a ‘nostalgic future’.
As a new designer, Rebecca has had a very exciting year so far. Before Graduate Fashion Week she was lucky enough to show two outfits at Vauxhall Fashion Scout for the Fashion Awareness Direct Awards. An outfit from her collection was also chosen to be photographed by the elusive fashion photographer Rankin. Since winning the Gold Award at Graduate Fashion Week, Thomson’s work has featured in national magazines such as Elle, Marie Claire, Italian Vogue, The Telegraph and The Guardian. She is currently working on a number of garments for online fashion boutique ASOS’s press launch in October, and will be venturing to Milan at the end of the month to display her portfolio alongside the world’s best newcomers at a cocktail evening hosted by Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour.
The judges have short-listed Rebecca for her prolific collection of sculptural creations that have already attracted wide acclaim and recognition, and won her the London Graduate Fashion Week Gold Award.
SMALL INDEPENDENT RETAILER/DESIGNER AWARD short-listed nominees:
COCU
Cocu and Chadwick create made to measure gowns that celebrate women and their curves!
Designer Slim Chadwick is the creative force behind the brand which has two boutiques producing evening wear and bridal gowns in the Barton Arcade, Manchester. All Cocu and Chadwick gowns are hand-made to a couture standard in England. As with a traditional tailor, the beginning part of the process takes place in store, with the customer choosing fabrics, styles and additional detailing, and Slim balancing the customer’s requirements to make sure they are appropriate for their body shape, style and personality.
Innovation runs through the core of the Cocu and Chadwick business. Slim has been asked to come up with new designs to disguise everything from pregnancies to mastectomies, experimenting successfully with a plethora of fabrics, including tartans, tweeds and leather. Customers also bring in their own fabrics, from traditional African fabrics to sari silks and ask for them to be adapted into a Cocu and Chadwick design.
Each bespoke outfit is designed to make the most of a woman’s figure, regardless of shape and size and this has undoubtedly been the winning factor in the business’ success.
Cocu attracts a wide range of clients, from those with a size 6 ‘boyish’ figure who would like curves, to a size 26 with a large bust and ample waist wanting definition – the result is always the same – an expertly crafted figure that is beautifully in proportion.
Taking limited budgets and using them to maximum effect, the business has staged wedding parades through the city centre with brides and bridesmaids modeling the gowns. Cocu also hold impromptu tea parties outside the boutique that are free of charge and open to anyone to stop by and enjoy a cup of tea and slice of cake!
Good independents take retailing back to the days of individuality, personal service, craftsmanship and quality, and for Cocu and Chadwick, this is always the aim.
The judges have short-listed Cocu for fulfilling a niche for women of all sizes, especially those who require individual tailoring and who maybe cannot buy off the peg occasional wear.
JAMES DARBY
From his base in Manchester’s Northern Quarter, once the epicentre of Cottonopolis, James Darby, self-taught bespoke tailor ‘with a twist’ produces exquisite bespoke tailoring – combining classic fabrics and techniques with contemporary styling. His full range of bespoke apparel includes shirts, coats, jackets, trousers, suits and scarfs, and James believes in working with his customers to create clothes that fit beautifully and reflect their personalities. The customers choose every element of their garments – be that the collar, the cloth, buttons, or the colour of the thread used, and everything is hand-crafted on the premises, from start to finish. In addition to tailoring, James also creates one-off innovative stock pieces.
With such a personal relationship between James and his clients, attention to detail is critical both in the design and production. A lifetime spent understanding the intricate processes involved in creating tailored garments is reflected in the quality of the finish.
The shop itself immerses you into his world – uniquely English, quirky, classic, surprising, colourful, bohemian and crafted. Cabinets fashioned from re-claimed front doors frame his work, reams of fabric sit on solid oak shelves, and the walls are dressed with cultural reference points – The Beatles, A Clockwork Orange and The Avengers, all feeding and stimulating; influencing and shaping his garments.
In terms of the service provided and products created, there is no other shop in Manchester or indeed the UK quite like James Darby’s. He only uses locally sourced products where possible, and produces everything on the premises. Influenced by his love of football and his time spent on the terraces, alongside a passion for architecture, music and old school dandyism, James Darby offers ‘the gentleman feel of Savile Row with a hint of Manchester attitude.’
The judges have short-listed James Darby for he is a self-taught designer who embraces the textile heritage of the city, and takes gentlemen’s wardrobe staples and introduces a quirky and innovative twist reflecting true Manchester attitude.
JUNK SHOP
Junk Shop opened in 2007, promoting eco-logical fashion and recycling to the people of Manchester. They enthuse passion and a belief for sustainable living and the environment, opening eyes to the concept of imaginative recycling, and pride themselves on being a social enterprise. The originality of the store stems from using recycled pre-loved materials, whether it’s the Narnia-esque changing rooms to the reformed bottle counter – all materials are lovingly sourced to provide the prefect retail therapy to ethical conscious fashionistas and built to reflect the ethics of its owners.
As an ethical and inventive shopping experience set within a beautiful installation, Junk Shop is one of few retailers who can genuinely boast individuality. They work hard, collaborating with some of the best young, up-and-coming designers to bring you fashion-conscious clothing that’s creative, playful, multi-cultural and distinctive, all made in Manchester.
Junk Shop is a community organisation focused on sustainable projects and supporting the local community through training. They currently work with 50 organisations on innovative projects. Junk even has its own currency, The Green Pound, which can be spent in numerous ethical outlets from The Royal Exchange Theatre to The Eighth Day. Proceeds go to Groundwork, reducing Carbon Emissions locally through ‘Solar Panels for Schools’. They also work with charities on innovative fundraising including Age Concern at Chester Racecourse, and their Up-cycled fashion range, showcased at Oxfam Designer Boutiques London.
Junk Shop’s ‘Next Step Project’ provides internships for young people moving on from care, and by offering unique training within the fashion industry, they inspire 50% of school-leavers to enroll at college. Junk Fashion courses inspire the public to make do and mend, reduce landfill, promote learning, empowerment and provide experience to gain employment within the fashion sector.
One of Junk Shop’s most prestigious projects has been the development of their ‘School of Junk’, where they showcase an array of creative courses within their imaginative studio and work closely with disadvantaged people who they creatively inspire through fashion design within an artistic environment.
The judges have short-listed Junk Shop for their socially conscious ethos, including its Green Pound currency, use of reclaimed and recycled products, community involvement, collaborative business partnerships and their educational and skills development packages.
THE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT IN FASHION AWARD winner will be announced at the awards ceremony on Thursday 14th October.
Best of luck to all short-listed nominees! We look forward to seeing you all on Thursday… and announcing the winners of the £2,000 prize and tailored professional development packages!
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We’re so very lucky and honoured to have a judging panel of such esteemed fashion industry experts. Here’s some information on the very important people making the big decisions at the Best of Manchester Fashion Awards this year!
New Designer Award judges:
Peter Saville is one of the most influential designers of our time. He has created a series of iconic images, including album covers for the bands Joy Division and New Order, and conceptual design projects that are exhibited all over the world. He is now contributing to the economic regeneration of Manchester as the city’s creative director.
Born in Manchester in 1955, Saville studied graphic design at Manchester School of Art, and in 1979, a year after graduating, co-founded the legendary independent record label, Factory Records, with the late Tony Wilson, and was appointed as the label’s creative director. Saville later designed seminal artwork at other labels for Roxy Music, Wham!, Suede and Pulp. He has also worked extensively in fashion by creating advertising and branding for Alexander McQueen, Dior, Jil Sander, Stella McCartney, Yohji Yamamoto and, most recently, Kate Moss and Kilgour. Saville’s clients in the cultural sector have included Centre Pompidou in Paris and the Barbican Centre and Whitechapel Gallery in London. He has also developed products in collaboration with Adidas and Raf Simons. Saville has won numerous design awards, and his achievements in design were celebrated in The Peter Saville Show at the Design Museum in London, 2003 followed by Urbis in 2004.
In 2005, he staged his first major show in a contemporary art museum with the exhibition, ESTATE, at the Migros Museum in Zurich. Saville’s ongoing work in conceptual design is exhibited at Paul Stolper in London and at Galerie Neu in Berlin. An international authority on design and creativity, he is a regular broadcaster on design issues and lectures all over the world. Throughout his career, Saville has engaged with design at a strategic level, culminating in his appointment as consultant creative director to Manchester City Council in 2004. As well as advising on perception and communication, he is creative consultant to the critically acclaimed Manchester International Festival.
Claire Lomax is a co-founder of Flux Magazine and has worked with some of the world’s biggest names in fashion. She strives to commission the most cutting-edge creative talent for Flux, an irreverent and thought-provoking take on leftfield and popular culture that brings fun, wit and adventure back to art, music, fashion, film and culture. From its Manchester base, Flux distributes 70,000 copies of FLUX nationally and internationally four times a year alongside its online editorial magazine. Flux features a brave and bold mix of well-respected figures and groundbreaking fashion, bands, artists and ideas. Those appearing in Flux include Yohji Yamamoto, Alexander McQueen, The Fall, Boudicca, The xx, David Shrigley, Franz Ferdinand, Tracey Emin, Pixies, Liars, Squarepusher, Shane Meadows, Bill Drummond, Nick Cave, Jake and Dinos Chapman and Vivienne Westwood.
Caroline Rush was appointed CEO of the British Fashion Council in April 2009 following two years advising on PR and Communications Strategy for the BFC as an external adviser and running the press office for London Fashion Week. She has 16 years experience in PR and Marketing across fashion, music, beauty and lifestyle both in house and from an agency perspective.
Oscar Pinto Hervia is the Creative Director of Hervia Bazaar and Hervia Ltd. Born Valparaiso, Chile in 1965, Oscar began his retail career by working for a fashion retailer on Bridge Street Manchester for 7 years. He then went on to set up his first independent boutique in the Royal Exchange in 1993. ‘Hervia’ quickly became the place to visit for innovative and exciting British brands like Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Helmut Lang and Hussein Chalayan. It was a destination store for North West celebrities and Take That were seen in there on numerous occasions buying the latest designs.
Before the Manchester bomb destroyed the Royal Exchange store in 1996, Hervia went into discussions with Vivienne Westwood to open a standalone store selling only her collections on Saint Mary’s Street just off Deansgate. This store opened in 1995. Hervia are now the leading UK franchisee for Vivienne Westwood with stores in Manchester, York, Liverpool, The Trafford Centre, Newcastle and Nottingham.
In February of this year Oscar opened a luxury multi brand boutique in Spring Gardens stocking some of the highest end and highly respected designers of the fashion world. Hervia Bazaar is a beautiful art deco inspired store selling designs for men and women from Antonio Berardi, Viktor & Rolf, John Galliano, Pierre Hardy, House of Holland, Ann Demeulemeester, A Child of the Jago, Rick Owens and many more. Although only open since the end of February Hervia Bazaar has already won praise from the national press being heralded as one of the most desirable shops to visit in the North West with Grazia magazine saying it “fills a design gap in the North.” Oscar has recently joined forces with Elle Magazine and The British Fashion Council to support an initiative they are running called Launch Pad. The scheme puts successful retailers together with new British design talent in order to help them develop their business. Oscar was on a prestigious panel of judges who included model Helena Christiensen, Elle editor Lorraine Candy and BFC’s CEO Caroline Rush and from S/S 2011 has chosen to stock and support new designers Holly Fulton and Eudon Choi.
Small Indepedent Retailer/Designer Award judges:
Peter Saville (see above for biog.)
Dolly Jones studied History of Art at Manchester University before arriving at Vogue for three week’s work experience. Next came London’s University of the Arts Periodical Journalism course, during which she was commissioned to interview “someone at the top of their game” – Alexandra Shulman obliged – and she was later invited back to take up a six month internship as editorial assistant of the magazine. The “Writer” job at VOGUE.COM came up in January 2000. A decade later – after breaking news every day, working with the Condé Nast Digital team to develop the site to its fullest potential and being named editor in 2005 – she is now responsible for an awarding-winning website that is the most fashion-forward and regularly updated fashion destination online.
In 2008 her role was expanded to Executive Editor of Condé Nast Digital, while remaining editor of VOGUE.COM. She sits on various fashion panels including the British Fashion Council and the Innovation Initiative Forum and she is also on the committee of the British Society of Magazine Editors.
Jessica Lowe is Press and Marketing Manager for Harvey Nichols in Manchester. She works promoting the garments of some of the world’s finest and most successful designers as well as more niche brands and new names in the fashion world. In the competition she will be looking for retailers that have a creative approach in building a brand, customer service and communicating with their customers.
Rob Warner is Design Director – Global Product at Umbro. Warner joined Umbro in August 2009 and leads product design for all categories across performance, lifestyle and fashion.
Originally from Birmingham and a graduate of the BA Fashion Design with Technology course at Manchester Metropolitan University, Rob’s former employers include Puma and O’Neill. He has directed product concepts for the 2006 World Cup, 2008 Olympic Games and Volvo Ocean Race as well as collaborations with the likes of Luella Bartley, Neil Barrett and Ferrari.
Rob’s passion for challenging design preconceptions saw Peter Saville introduced to the Umbro fold, leading to the “New Fabric of England” home uniform for the English national football team.
Helen Tither, Manchester Style Guide editor and Manchester Evening News columnist, has interviewed everyone from Posh Spice to the Prime Minister in her 10 years in journalism. As Women’s and Fashion editor at the M.E.N. she set up the award-winning Style supplement and interviewed some of the city’s favourite fashion exports including Matthew Williamson and the first interview with Henry Holland. As well as reporting from the catwalks of Milan and London fashion weeks. But her passion has always been for unearthing the up-and-coming design talent and independent boutiques that make our city such an amazing shopping destination. Since going freelance last year, Helen now edits Manchester Arndale’s Inside magazine, the new Manchester Style Guide, alongside a weekly opinion column for the M.E.N. and various fashion features for the internet. In her spare time, she admits to spending far too much time “researching” the fashion finds in Manchester’s coolest new stores.
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The Best of Manchester Fashion Awards 2010 are most excited to announce the long list of nominees for the Small Independent Retailer/Designer and New Designer categories. These are…
Small Independent Retailer/Designer:
A Few Fine Things
American Graffiti
Babycakes
CoCu
James Darby
Frank Rostron
The General Store
Hervia Bazaar
Junk Shop
The Lucile Boutique
Me & Yu
Nicholas Jones Tailoring
Oi Polloi
Pop Boutique
Poshu
Ran
Renegade Marmalade
Retro Rehab
Rockers
Thomas Street Post Office
Thunder Egg
Tib Street Fashion Market
Vintage Threads
New Designer:
Penny Armstrong
Hannah Calvert
Alex Dubell
Danielle Ferguson
Micheal Bolton Heaton
Chloe Lennox
Samuel Mason
Emma Murphy
Kirsty Payne
Charlotte Taylor
Rebecca Thomson
Richard Thorner
Huge congratulations to all nominees! The judges now face the unenviable task of deciding who will make it to the short list. More details coming soon, so do keep checking back for updates!
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